Orkney August 2015: Part the Eighth.

Our penultimate day on Orkney and we spent it on another island - Papa Westray (known colloquially as Papay). We've been going down in size with the islands we've visited: Mainland with a population of 17,000, Westray with 590, Shapinsay with 300 and Papa Westray, by far the smallest, with just 90. As we did on Westray we are taking a tour organised by the island 'council', the advantages of which are making the best use of our time, seeing all of the sights and sites, having a local guide who knows the island well and, finally, putting some money back into the local economy.

Our Dash Islander plane, with room for eight people, on the runway at Kirkwall. Our scheduled route was Westray and then Papa Westray, the last leg, at two minutes, being the shortest commercial flight in the world. In the event, as we were the only two people booked on the flight, they asked us if we minded going straight to Papa Westray. We didn't (not much) and had a 13 minute flight instead, with great views from our own private plane.

The fact that this garden shed is strongly tethered to the ground gives a good indication of the prevailing weather - windy!

The fact that this stone wall is completely covered in lichen gives a good indication of the air quality - pure!

Now restored but still in occasional use, St Boniface Kirk is set in an important ecclesiastic site dating back to the 8th century. It stands above the rocky shore towards the north west of Papa Westray. It has Iron Age, Pictish and later remains nearby, dating from the 6th century BC to 12th century AD.  A Norse hog-back gravestone and two Early Christian cross-slabs found in the Kirkyard all combine to suggest a site of great significance. The island name Papa refers to the early Christians, who would have been Catholics and adherents of the Pope.

A multi-layered midden on the seashore close to the kirk. Exposed and gradually being lost to erosion. And this is a good example of a problem the smaller islands have - unique archaeology and few resources for excavation and conservation.

The island service station - make a note of what you take in an exercise book and settle up at the end of the month.

The Knap of Howar is Papa Westray's most famous monument. It comprises two oblong stone built houses which are the earliest standing dwellings known in Northern Europe. Dating back to around 3800 years BC, they are older than those at Skara Brae and very similar - the furniture and fittings include hearths, pits, built-in cupboards and stone benches.

 

They were occupied by neolithic farmers for at least 500 years. From midden remains the mode of subsistence was primarily pastoral, rearing cattle, sheep and pigs. There is some evidence of cereal cultivation and harvesting of fish and shell fish. Entrance to the houses is by low, narrow passages giving shelter from the Orkney weather and they are linked by a low internal passageway. It is unlikely that these were isolated and there must be other houses around just waiting to be uncovered.

A rather handsome cockerel - he really fancied himself this one and enjoyed strutting around for all to admire his fine plumage. A bit like me.

One of the things I was hoping to see on this visit to Orkney was the Scottish Primrose (Primula scotica). This small, delightful flower grows on moist but well-drained, grazed grasslands. It is often found near the coast and is endemic to a small area in the very north of Scotland and some of the islands. We came across it when we walked around the RSPB reserve at the north end of the island. Although nationally rare, there were plenty to be seen.

Another rare plant we came across was the Autumn Gentian (Gentianella amarelle). It hadn't quite come into bloom but it was worth taking a photograph of for its rarity.

Continuing my series of slightly out-of-focus bird photographs, here's one of a Black Guillemot with a butterfish lunch. Not many of these cliff nesters around at this time of year so it was a treat to see one. 

Here's a strange thing. You know what it's like when you suddenly notice something odd and then keep looking to see if you are right? Well, I did this with washing lines and, when I pointed the oddness out, so did Mrs P.  And she'll attest to the fact that we saw no bras on washing lines in Orkney. I pass this fact on with no further comment other than to ask, if you ever visit Orkney, that you check it out.

Rush hour at Terminal 1 at Papa Westray airport. All staff have two or three other jobs and turn up for their aviation duties about 2 minutes before the plane lands. Security checks? Never heard of them! Identity checks? What are those? Ticket checks? Why would they want to do that?

All that and just 10 minutes for check-in - and even this is not really necessary.