Mull 2017: Iona

Here's something that I'd written soon after our trip to Mull but, for some reason, never got around to posting. As it completes my record with a description of some of our time on Iona, one of the main reasons for visiting Mull in the first place, here it is as originally typed. 

This is the last post on our recent break on Mull and I thought I'd show a few photographs taken when we were on Iona. From what I gather, we had chosen a good time to be on the island as it gets extremely busy during the high season. Personally I think I would have been very disappointed if I'd gone there and found myself just one of many. The place has a unique tranquility and is best visited when there are few other distractions, like people.

Iona has been an important centre of Christian worship since St Columba arrived in AD 563. Despite the repeated attention of Vikings, his monastery survived until the end of the 12th century. Around 1200, a Benedictine abbey was founded and, although monastic life on Iona ended with the Protestant Reformation in 1560, pilgrimages to St Columba's Shrine continued to thrive over the ages, right up to the present day.

At the centre of the grass court (the garth) around which the Iona cloister is built, lies this sculpture by Jacques Lipchitz called 'Descent of the Spirit'. It is one of three originals and was given to the Abbey by the artist himself. It shows the Virgin supported in a starry cloud descending to earth, represented by animals, birds and humans, and carried by the Holy Spirit, a Dove. I'd make room for it in my garden, if offered.

A view from the west end of the Abbey, looking over the font towards the altar at the far end. It was, for me at least, surprisingly but effectively austere. Pilgrims would certainly not be distracted by the presence of effigies or any other idolatrous images.

Around the outer cloister wall is an array of medieval grave slabs. Many of these originally stood outside in St Oran's Chapel burial ground. The carving is intricate, with common motifs including flowers, swords, and hunting scenes. Many of the slabs commemorate clan chiefs, including MacKinnon, MacLean and MacLeod chieftains. 

The layout of Iona Abbey follows a traditional monastic layout, with a cloister walk adjoining the church, although in this case the cloister is unusually sited on the north side of the church. Very little remains of the original medieval cloisters and what's there now was rebuilt in the 1950s and 60s. Though modern, the cloister is carved to resemble an authentic medieval cloister with double rows of columns supporting capitals carved with flowers and birds. 

Taking a break at the north end of Iona, looking out towards Staffa and Lungha. There are no footpaths on the island but, with the Right to Roam Act, most places are accessible.

The highest point on Iona is Dun I. Not pronounced 'Dun One' but 'Dun EE'. It simply means 'Mount Iona, I being the local name for Iona. Nomenclature aside, what is interesting about Dun I is that it is crowned by yet another Vanessa trig point, news of which will excite some of my readers as much as it did me. Look closely at this one and, unless I'm mistaken, you'll be able to make out the striations of the original cardboard tube that was used as the mould. Now, isn't that fascinating?

Just the top of one of the many Celtic crosses on Iona. I'd never really thought much about the design of these before and, in so far as it went, I would have said that the top was a combination of the sun/halo and the cross. However, someone in the Abbey pointed out that, given the number of early broken crosses they've come across, there is a view that the circular pieces were added to stabilise and strengthen the cross. Makes sense to me.

Another view of the interior of the Abbey, this time looking east-west towards the font and the main door. The choir stalls are in the forefront and were magnificently carved.

The Abbey Museum, as well as detailing the evolution of religion on the island, contains an amazing collection of Celtic crosses. Several were around 5 - 6 meters tall and must have been quite a sight when they were firmly embedded in the landscape.

Another monument on the island is the Iona Nunnery, an Augustinian convent located close to the Abbey. It was established just after the foundation of the monastery in 1203 and its ruins form the most complete remains of a medieval nunnery extant in Scotland. And I probably don't need to say it but, after the Reformation, the priory was dissolved and reduced to rubble. One thing I will always remember about my ramble around these ruins is coming across a group of, presumably, pilgrims relaxing and smoking some 'herbal' cigarettes. They seemed very happy and relaxed, as I was but without the assistance of anything herbal.

One last look southwards down the Iona Sound....

....before getting on the ferry back to Fionphort. We'll return to Iona one day.