A visit to Alternun Church

As we had a free afternoon, we thought we'd visit St Nonna's church in Alternun, about 10 miles away. Known by some as the 'cathedral of the moor', it is the second largest church on Bodmin Moor. The name, St Nonna, is derived from its founder, St Non, the mother of St David, the patron saint of Wales (of course). We have visited the reputed site of his birth, St Non's chapel, just outside of St David's in Pembrokeshire. Alternun itself is more properly called Alternon, 'altar of Non'.
St Nonna's Holy Well is to the north-east of the church and on the opposite side of the road. It was one of two Cornish "bowssening" wells, its waters allegedly having curative powers for lunatics. The unfortunate "victims" were paraded to the well - which is really a plunge bath - and ducked in it, while prayers were recited and canticles chanted, until they were "cured".

Of St. Nonna`s original building nothing now remains. The Normans built a church here  on its foundations, in the early 12th century, but only a few pieces of which can still to be found (for example, the font).  The present church dates from the early 15th century and its rough exterior is due to the fact that it was built partly of natural moorstone, which is unquarried stone basically picked up from the moor. The Celtic cross in the foreground, just by the church gate, dates from the 6th century.

The graveyard contains a fine collection of headstones and would be a great place to spend a few hours on a sunny afternoon. But, on a cold and windy day, a place to glance at and pass thorough.

But I did take time to admire this carved slate monument to Thomas Herring, who died in 1869.

The nave and its associated side aisles, which are unusually wide. In front of the altar at the far end is a Victorian rood-screen. There is an almost total absence of any stained glass so there's plenty of light.

The granite Norman font, decorated at each corner with carved heads.

Look closely and you can make out the remnants of the original  paint.

Perhaps the paint is a little more noticeable on this one? When I see heads like these, I always wonder about the models. Who were they? Were they related to the carver? Or were they self-portraits?

St Nonna's is reknowned for its carved pew ends. There are 79 of them and they are really impressive.

We know that they were carved by Thomas Daye because he tells us in this one. He carved them between 1510 and 1530, so that makes them almost 500 years old. If only they could talk, such tales they could tell.

The subjects Thomas Daye depicted were traditional Christian symbols, as well as everyday subjects, such as sheep on the moors, a jester, fiddler, sword dancers - and a Cornish bagpiper. This is the one of the jester, with some rather conspicuous dangly bits. Are they what we think they are? Probably. If not, what could they be?

The wood for the church, according to tradition, came from the mansion of the Trelawney family, near Treween, which was dismantled in the 15th century.

I've already mentioned that the interior of St Nonna's is almost devoid of stained glass. The only piece is in the east window and is said to represent St Nonna (though elsewhere an identical depiction from the same factory represents St John The Evangelist!). 

Is it 15th or 17th century? The jury is divided on the date of Alternun Old Bridge but that doesn't detract from the fact that it is a good example of the bridge builders' skills. Much too narrow for present day traffic.