Northern Cyprus: May 2015: Part 3

An enjoyable and informative day trip to Famagusta and its environs. Here's just a few photographs to give a flavour of the day.

The Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque originally known as Saint Nicholas's Cathedral is the largest medieval building in Famagusta. It was built between 1298 and around 1400 and was consecrated as a Catholic cathedral in 1328. The cathedral was converted into a mosque after the Ottoman Empire captured Famagusta in 1571 and it remains a functioning mosque to this day. This view was taken from in front of what was originally the main door into the cathedral and looks down the nave, which is now the main praying area of the mosque.

Tucked away right to the side at the bottom of the nave is the screened area where women pray. It was also the place where the mosque vacuum cleaners seem to be kept, upon which I pass no comment about equality.

This building is the Cathedral of St George of the Greeks. It was probably built in opposition to the nearby Roman Catholic cathedral of St. Nicholas. The view shows the semicircular apse at its eastern end. Originally the central part of the cathedral had a large dome which was blown up in 1571 during a bombardment by Turkish artillery. The Greeks and Turks have never been good neighbours!

Founded in 300 BC, Famagusta remained a fishing village for many years but, as a result of the gradual evacuation of nearby Salamis, it developed into a small port. With the onset of Lusignan rule in the mid 1100s, it increased in importance due to its natural harbour and the walls that protected its inner town. This development accelerated in the 13th century as the town became a centre of commerce for both the East and West and it was transformed into one of the 'richest cities in Christendom'. In 1372 the port was seized by Genoa and in 1489 by Venice and they continued the development of its commercial activity and wealth. I like this photograph because it marries the old and new: the walls of the old castle overlooked by the accoutrements of the modern port.

Just to the north of Famagusta, Salamis is one of Cyprus's main archaeological sites. It was one of 10 city kingdoms in Cyprus and its origins go  back to the 11th century BC. It rose to prominence in the 6th century BC with a royal court and a mint for its own coins. The Persians destroyed the city in 306BC but it flourished again under the Romans from about 60BC. Fortunes waxed and waned, often in the wake of earthquakes until a series of disasters (the harbour silting up and attacks by Arab raiders) all helped to finish it off. Around 650BC, the inhabitants fled down the coast to what eventually became Famagusta.
The site covers several acres and, once inside, we could wander at will and, joy of joys, climb, touch and feel to our heart's content - the very best way to get to grips with an ancient site (learn a lesson, Stonehenge). The photograph shows the Agora, which was the meeting place and market of the city. Two sides were lined with columned arcades to provide shade in summer and shelter in winter. Only one of the columns has survived. The courtyard has temples dedicated to gods of commerce and was once decorated with statues and fountains.

The amphitheatre dates from the time of Augustus and originally consisted of 50 rows of seats for more than 15,000 spectators. Performances took place on the raised stage decorated with statues. After it was destroyed by earthquakes in the 4th century it was demolished and building materials used on other parts of the site. Today it has been restored as far as it can be and is used for occasional events - in fact, one of friends recalled being there several times for regimental concerts/gatherings.  We've seen a few amphitheatres in our time and this one is in excellent condition. It's unusual in that the back-stage buildings are still intact and the fact that it faces away from the sea - most face towards the water.

 

All around the site, many trees seemed to be festooned with white snails. Were they dead? Apparently not because I picked a few off and looked. What were they doing there? Cue a Google search back at base! I learnt that many species of snail go into a form of summer hibernation known as aestivation and in so doing form these large clumps. They are the White Garden Snail (Theba pisana), also called Sand hill snail, White Italian snail, Mediterranean coastal snail or Mediterranean snail. After cleaning them, the locals find them a culinary delicacy. Me? Not tempted.

Lots of these lizards running around the site.

The forty four seat Roman latrine beside the gymnasium, just off the Agora. Apparently the Romans put a greater premium on efficient evacuation than privacy. Although much of the detail has been lost, in their prime there were separate seats and running water for post-ejection ablutions. In some ways, sanitary arrangements for most on the island have gone backwards since then. 

On our way back to the villa we called in on the monastery which bears the name of St Barnabas. It was originally built in the last part of the fifth century, to commemorate the discovery of his body, and the kudos it brought to the early Christian Church of Cyprus. The church is exactly as it was when its last three monks left in 1976. All the paraphernalia (pulpits, wooden lectern and pews) are still in place. It contained a rich collection of painted and gilt icons mostly dating from the 18th century. One wall had a display of discarded artificial limbs, thrown away by penitents whose prayers had been answered. Unfortunately, the photograph I took of these didn't come out so you'll have to take my word for it that they do exist.

And here's a display of three icons showing St George.