Shetland Sojourn 2018: Part 2

The original plan was to spend the day on Whalsay, one of the islands we have yet to visit. Things didn't quite go to plan. Read on....

A relatively early morning dash to the ferry port for Whalsay, Laxo, was to no avail. When we got there, we were greeted with the news that the ferry wasn't running due to an electrical problem. A mechanic was on the way but there was no guarantee of a reasonably prompt departure. As there was absolutely nothing at Laxo apart from the landing pier, we turned to Plan B.

Plan B was a circular walk along the Northmavine coast from Eshaness lighthouse. It was around 5 miles, there and back in rather nice weather as the photographs below will show.

The dramatic coastline looking northwards from the lighthouse. The next landfall from this spot would be Greenland, which is not visible even through the conditions were very clear.

In this part of the world, indentations/inlets are known as 'geos'. This is one of the largest/deepest - Calder's Geo. Lots of nesting Fulmars here but, to be honest, there seemed to be nesting Fulmars on every cliff we visited.

Another cliffscape. This time looking back down the coast towards the lighthouse. Look at the blue sky!

We did this walk the last time we visited Shetland (in 2013). Then, the weather conditions were different, with waves crashing over the cliffs in the distance.

Mrs P x 2 and Mrs S, looking out to sea or were they facing inland? I really can't remember.

Some rubbish on the beach. There were a lot of single shoes/boots so I assume they don't travel in pairs. Sadly, most of the junk was plastic in one form or another. Who can say we don't have a problem if a place as remote as this is contaminated? Lessen your plastic waste, folks, and help save the planet. It really is a matter of urgency.

These are 3 'horizontal mills' which were powered by the outlet from the nearby loch. The water was diverted in culvert to the first mill, drove the wheel and then flowed onto the next and the next. The horizontal mills were a step up from the old-fashioned quern and were used for grinding oats and barley (bere) on a relatively small scale. The wooden paddle wheel was connected to the millstones on the floor above by an iron rod and did not required any gearing, which came with the advent of vertical wheels. These horizontal mills were also known as 'clack' or 'Norse' mills and were thought to have been built by local crofters, perhaps by several families, from local materials. One factor in their demise is thought to be the establishment of larger mills by the laird or landowner, coupled by 'encouragement' to pay to use them.

This is a view of the Bronze Age broch on the Loch of Houlland. It is joined to the 'mainland' by a causeway and can be seen above a line of the ruins of what must have been a fairly sizable settlement. According to local legend, the fairies are said to make music here at midday. Sadly we got there at around 2 pm so are not is a position to attest to the truth or otherwise of this.

Close to Eshaness is the Cross Kirk graveyard and this rather intriguing plaque that duplicates the faded inscription on the grave below. It tells the tale of Donald Robertson, who became famous for being unfortunate. He died because Laurence Tulloch, a pharmacist in Sullom, gave him Salpeter (used as fertiliser and for making fireworks) instead of Epsom salt, a natural remedy for all kinds of ailments. Donald Robertson suffered a painful death because his blood was no more able to carry the oxygen his body needed.In a trial in Lerwick, Tulloch was accused of culpable homicide. He was found guilty but the jury appealed to the sheriff. They thought it was nothing but a terrible accident. Tulloch was incarcerated for a few days and walked scotfree. He and his family, his wife Agnes and his two daughters, left Shetland after a while. He must have felt unable to live in that small community any longer. Did people ostracize him for his “error”? Or did they believe worse? Did some think he had done it on purpose?
Officially it remains a tragic accident and the stone in the graveyard won’t reveal more. But the graveyard gives you all the space you need to ponder on the fate of Donald Robertson.

Of the many geese that pass through Shetland as they migrate, the only type we saw was the largest, the Greylag Goose. Their honking skeins flew over our chalet every night and morning

The Lapwing is also known as the Green Plover. This shot clearly shows why. It's also known as a Peewit, which is a not-too-bad rendition of its call.

A Whimbrel,  rather like a small Curlew. A rare migrant in southern parts but resident on the islands. We were to see quite a few during our stay but I don't think I got a particulary photograph of any of them. Its name is thought to derive from its call but that connection completely escapes me.

A solitary fishing boat heading out to sea from Scalloway with the evening sun lighting up the houses in the background. Once upon a time, Scalloway was the capitol of Shetland.

The view from our lounge, with the island of Bressay in the background and an oil tanker in the foreground. There was a minimum of two moored up in pretty much the same place for the duration of our stay. We assumed that they were waiting for a berth in Lerwick before moving in. An eyesore in daylight hours but marginally more acceptable when they were lit up at night.