A stroll along the creek from St Winnow to Lerryn - and back

If someone trapped me in a vat of bubbling gravy and said they wouldn't get me out until I'd given them a list of my favourite walks, this walk would be one that I'd use to escape Bisto hell. We've done several times and it never palls, whatever the season and whatever the weather conditions.

Our route followed the Fowey for a while and then hugged the north side of Lerryn creek to Lerryn itelf - and back again. Just over 6 miles in glorious weather, with views all the way.

Our start and end point was the car park adjacent to St Winnow's church in the eponymous St Winnow. The church itself is a 15th Century listed building and stands on the same flat piece of land where probably the oratory of St Winnoc was erected at the end of the 7th Century. Of that building, made of cob (mud and straw) and thatched, nothing remains. The churchyard is roughly circular which indicates the antiquity of the site as an original 'lan'. What I like about this church is the ambience: there is a wonderful and palpable stillness, tranquillity and timelessness about the place.

This window in the Lady Chapel is a memorial to Lieutenant Teignmouth Melvill, of Ethy, awarded one of the first posthumous VCs for his gallantry in the Zulu Wars.  

The glass in the east windows dates from about 1500 and it's a lot more impressive than this photograph might suggest. Just imagine, this assembly of fragile panes has been in this location for over 500 years.

The Rood Screen is one of the few to have survived in Cornwall; it was taken down and sympathetically restored by Violet Pinwell, a very well respected ecclesiastical wood carver, in 1907. We've come across her work in many of the churches we've visited.

There are thirty three (yes, there are - I counted them!)  Elizabethan and Tudor carved pew bench ends, ranging in age from around 1485 to 1630. They are reputed to be among the finest in Cornwall, but they also say that about those in the church in Altarnun. Let's not indulge in comparative superlatives: they are both impressive and worth seeing. I like to run my fingers over the wood and make a connection with the artist.

This one shows an early trading vessel  and is, or so I read,  of considerable interest to maritime historians. I like the sense of vitality and movement that comes from the carver's chisel.

As well as the intrinsic interest of St Winnow's church, there's also the location to enjoy. It's right next to the River Fowey and I've already mentioned its tranquillity. The Fowey originates on Bodmin Moor and flows down to the sea at Fowey, via Lostwithiel. At its upper reaches, near Siblyback Reservoir, it is used as a channel for domestic water, which is then abstracted at Restormel. Stick with me and learn, folks.

Before I forget, here's a road sign that caught my attention. I wish I'd had the time to drive down the lane to see what 'impractical for cars' actually meant. Too narrow? Too rough? Why just cars? Would it be impractical for lorries? Bikes? I thought it was a very nice way of indicating a potential problem. Much better than 'no cars' or 'cars prohibited'. In a way, it leaves going that way very much to the judgement of the motorist: "we've said it's impractical. Your choice as to what to do next".

Flowers of Spring 1: the Blackthorn is just coming into blossom, filling the air with its musty fragrance. A sign that Winter is definitely over - we hope. Here's a tip for the uninformed: don't get near its rather fearsome thorns. They hurt.

Flowers of Spring 2: a few Bluebells are making their appearance, ahead of the main show at the beginning of next month. Is there anything more evocative of woodlands that the scent of a mass of Bluebells? Not to me, there isn't.

The stepping stones  across the River Lerryn are an iconic feature of Lerryn and are negotiable at most states of the tide, with the exception of the highest. Children like them as do the young at heart. How old are they? Nobody knows for certain and they are usually rather vaguely described as 'ancient' - though not the obviously cement ones that are there now.

Looking down the River Lerryn to where it broadens out as it meets Lerryn Creek off the Fowey River. In 2000, an earthenware jar was found beside the creek which contained over 1,000 silver Roman coins dating from the 3rd Century AD. At one time, the 4 miles of creek to Lerryn was navigable from the sea by cargo barges.  However mining activity in the river valleys has caused the creek to silt up so that it is now only navigable by small boats.

Watercolour Cottage in Lerryn. As I suspected from its name, it is a holiday rental property. It just doesn't strike me as a name that a local would use but, despite the name, it is in a lovely position. Having viewed it from its front, I'm not sure that it's picturesque enough to warrant being the target of watercolourists or artists of any other genre. But what do I know?

And then it was back to our starting point by St Winnow church, a joy from any angle.