Monday 15 November 2021

A short break on the Lizard

 We were recently treated to a two-night break at a cliff top hotel on the Lizard - the Polurrian, just outside of Mullion. We've already walked all of the Lizard coastline but it was absolutely no hardship to repeat a couple of walks. It's one of our favourite parts of Cornwall, especially out of the tourist season when there are far fewer people around.

Our first walk was a 5.5 mile circular route, starting and ending in the Square in St Keverne. We dropped down to the coast at Porthallow, followed the coastal footpath through Porthkerris to Porthoustock and then back inland to our starting point. A delightful walk that the few showers did not spoil and, as the elevation profile shows, there were a few ups and downs.
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We saw a lot of this style of stiles on the walk, with varying gaps between the ‘rungs’. The wet, slippery surfaces demanded extra care as a broken ankle would not have been much fun. And, as I’ve said on previous walks, I just love these natural windows into what is to come next.

How on earth they got this dumper truck in this position is a mystery. Perhaps they were going somewhere else and got stuck? Not the sort of thing we normally encounter on one of our walks. The biggest bit of litter we've ever come across.
Advertised as a holiday let with a sun roof and close to the beach at Porthoustock.
A terrace of cottages just up from the beach at Porthoustock. As far as I can find out, these are unusual in that they are not holiday lets but are actually lived in all year round. Long may it continue this way.
One of the few fishing boats still working off the beach at Porthallow.
Mrs P leads the way up the rather steep footpath leading out of Porthallow.
Looking eastwards, with St Mawes and Anthony’s Head being visible. A little further away are the Gribbin and Rame Head. A nice clear day and I'd estimate the visibility at around 25 miles.
Looking down on the beach at Porthkerris. Not a place for swimming but is a well known centre for diving.
No comment.
Why not commune with nature in this holiday let in a rustic position? It's at Trenoweth Mill if you are interested. Glamping it's not.
Part of the path from Porthoustock to St Keverne. At one time, it must have been a major route between the two, maybe even used by packhorses bringing goods inland from the beach. Or, perhaps, a track used by smugglers as they brought their contraband for distribution to the locals?
The rather pathetic dribble at the holy well dedicated to St Prostatus, the patron saint of elderly men. At the neighbouring well of St Viagra, the outflow is much more impressive.
I forgot the photographers' mantra - don't take a shot into the sun. Oh well, you can still make out the size and style of St Keverne Parish Church.
A fine trio of mature trees in the graveyard. I must say that the graveyard was obviously very well looked after.
After St Keverne, we headed off to visit the church of St Anthony in Meneage. This part of the Lizard, a combination of five parishes, has long been known as the Meneage - Land of the Monks. A Norman church built on the site of a Celtic original. It's relatively isolated and its location on the edge of an estuary adds to its charm.
A modern etched window to the memory of a past vicar, Willie Jenkin. I do like etched glass but it's a shame that this photograph does not do it justice. Exposure bracketing is what I should have used.
Some traditional stained glass - St Mary.
It's a small church but very well looked after. I would imagine its spirit of place would add to any service here - provided, of course, that it was traditional and not one of the more modern variants.

St John from the East Window above the altar.
Everybody likes the sound of running water.
The following day we thought we'd walk around Loe Pool by Helston. An anticipated 6 miler that actually came in at 7.5miles because of a closed footpath. The longest we've walked for a while but a good one.
Quite a large part of the walk was through wooded areas alongside the water of Loe Pool. The Pool is the largest freshwater lake in Cornwall, excluding reservoirs like Siblyback etc.
Looking down on Loe Bar, an area of shingle that separates the freshwater Loe Pool from the sea. The bar itself is formed by the tide and first blocked off the entrance to the Pool in mediaeval times. Before then, the Pool was a river and Helston had its own port.
Looking up the Pool from the Bar. This is the view that sailors would have seen when there was access to the sea.
The view from the Bar looking eastwards towards the Lizard. Looks can be deceptive - this beach is one of the most dangerous in Cornwall.
The Bar with the thin line of the sea above it.
The tranquil water of  Loe Pool. Look closely and you might make out the shower dappling the surface.

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