Monday 21 March 2022

Along the Lynher from St Stephen's in Saltash

The sun was shining and it was even warm for some of the time. Winter is definitely on its way out and Spring is in the air. A great day for a walk and this one took us along the River Lynher, just outside Saltash. We've done it a few times before and it's yet another that does not disappoint. As ever, a few photographs for the record.

And, of course, this walk was done against the depressing backdrop of the tragedy of Russian aggression against Ukraine. We could enjoy something being denied so many. It was never far from our thoughts.

We began and ended outside of St Stephen's church on the outskirts of Saltash. Our route took us down through Forder to Antony Passage, then across to Wivelscombe and Greeps and returning via the side of Trematon Castle. It was just under 6 miles and the elevation profile tells it the way it was - lots of ups and downs so it was not an easy walk. At the top end of the moderate grade.
This companiable fellow seemed to follow us for a while as we walked along what must have been its territory.
Looking down Forder Lake towards the Lynher. ‘Lake’ is a local name for ‘creek’ or ‘inlet’. But on Dartmoor, it means ‘stream’. In the foreground is the viaduct that now carries the railway line down into Cornwall. Some think it’s the original build by Brunel but it’s not. Brunel’s viaduct was further down the creek and was a wooden structure, it didn’t last that long and was replaced by this one in the early 1900s. The track of the line was modified to accommodate this and the bed of the old railway can still be seen in parts. Just passed the viaduct, the embankment in view is that for the pond of the old tidal mill. Recently on the market for £2.5 million!
The ship in the channel of the Lynher is HMS Brecon, decommissioned in the early 2000s, and now a static training ship for naval recruits at nearby HMS Raleigh at Torpoint. It is anchored off Jupiter Point, the site of a D~Day embarkation base for the USA army.
Low tide at the top limit of Wivelscombe Lake. The OS map says that there’s an old quay around here but I’ve never been able to spot it. Must have used a boat with a very shallow draft to get up here at most high tides.
Looking vaguely north-westerly towards the TV mast on the top of Caradon Hill, about 12 miles away. Lots of fields but no animals. Presumably because it's too early to turn them out?
A CH-47 Chinook flying quite low over the trees. It came and went and, shortly after, it came and went in the opposite direction.
A stretch through the deciduous woodland bordering the Wivelscombe Lake. The photograph does not do justice to the vibrant yellow of the primroses and celandines. A very pleasant spot for our lunch stop.
Looking over the Lynher with the spire of St Mary's church in Sheviock in the distance. A church with a spire is rather unusual for Cornwall as most have towers. In the foreground is the new vineyard being planted up by the Shillingham Estate. Chateau Antony anyone?
Looking eastwards and the confluence of the Lynher with the Hamoaze , which flows into Plymouth Sound towards the right. In the distance the cranes of Devonport Dockyard are visible.
Trematon Castle was built soon after the Norman Conquest and was owned since 1270 by the Duchy of Cornwall. It is now in private hands and is only open to the public on special occasions. It has a stone keep raised on an earlier motte. Although in ruins, much of the Norman walls remain standing, so that the original form of the Castle and keep are clear. The keep is oval and has walls 10 feet thick and 30 feet high. The internal diameter is approximately 21 metres. A rectangular gatehouse, built in 1270, has two floors and a portcullis. Both are in good condition.  Within the castle courtyard stands a Georgian house built in about 1808. This has four reception rooms and six main bedrooms, as well as servants' quarters. Part of the original castle wall was demolished to give this house a view into the surrounding countryside. This house is now a very expensive B & B - a minimum of £300 per room per night.
We spotted this sign as we exited the field in question. The bull appeared to be invisible so we might have passed it on our way through.
That's what I call a garden with a view. I can only imagine what previous occupants were witness to on the days leading up to D-Day.
It's a good year for catkins. A welcome early adornment of leafless Hazel trees. I like catkins.
Affixed to a cottage in the vicinity of Trematon Castle. An old family retainer? Is it an old cottage for a butler or a cottage for an old butler?
St Stephen's church in Saltash. There was originally a 13th-century church on the same site which had been consecrated in 1259. The present building dates from the 15th century. For centuries the church existed in splendid rural isolation as it is a couple of miles from the river front where the ferry and fishing took place. Gradually, the town has caught up with the church and it is now surrounded by houses. I've not read any reasonable explanation for why it was built where it was but I suspect it had something to do with its proximity to Trematon Castle.
There are a few military graves in the churchyard but this one caught my eye: Edwin Charles Benney of the Duke of Cornwall's Light Infantry. He was 59 when he died and a little investigation reveals that he died at the South Devon Hospital in Plymouth. I don't know what he died of. Given his age, I suspect that he had some sort of support role rather than being a soldier on 'active service'. His will is below and I don't think the recipient of his legacy is his wife.

An interior view of St Stephen’s. Several generations of Mrs P’s Cornish forebears would have stood before that altar, either being married or, in a coffin, being buried.
A stained glass window dating from around 1947. It incorporates remnants of glass recovered from a much older window destroyed during a bombing raid in WW2.

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