Monday 5 December 2022

In the countryside around St Clether and Bowithick

 Our weekly long walk took us on a route that was only partially familiar and which began and ended at the Rising Sun just outside of Altarnun. The weather promised to be dry, clear and on the cold side. In the event, the forecast was pretty accurate and a good time was had by all - countryside, quiet lanes, interesting places to stop off at and views all the way around.

The route had its 'moments' and, by the time we'd sorted out the right direction at a few places, we clocked up a very pleasing 8.4 miles. Not bad for a bunch of pensioners! It was not the best sign-posted walk we've been on and there were plenty of stiles to negotiate, both in variety and number.
Off a tarmacked farm track and we were on a sunken lane. Still lots of green ivy around and residual brown leaves on some of the trees.  Quiet, remote and a pleasure to walk along. 
Looking over fields with the tower of St Clether church in the distance. A very autumnal scene with the nascent River Inny flowing through this valley.
A slightly out of focus grey heron.
A flock of Golden Plovers flapping away. It's that time of year when they take up winter residence for a few months. I expect that we'll see more of them the next time we are up on Bodmin Moor around Minions.
There's nothing quite like the sound of rushing water. This stream was well hidden in the undergrowth and, luckily, we could cross it by way of a wooden bridge. I suspect that, at one time, there was a water mill in this vicinity as the area seemed a little too ordered to be natural, although the ivy was doing its best to disguise this.
A blue sky and open countryside looking towards the eastern edges of Bodmin Moor. The hill to the left of centre is Bray Down and, in the distance to the right, Roughtor and Showery Tor can just be made out.
The church of St Clederus at St Clether dates from the 12th Century, with some Victorian restoration. The three staged tower dates from the 1500s. Clederus was thought to be one of 24 children of King Broccan of Breconshire. Many of his siblings are associated with various churches in Cornwall.
A very simple interior with some fine Norman arches. It's a church that has a good 'feel' and is well taken care of. But how long will it remain open?
One interesting and unusual feature of the church is the box pews, probably dating from the 1700s. Local farming families, and others who could afford it, would rent a pew for their family, servants and labourers.  With a nod to egalitarianism, the church also has some public pews where anyone could sit rent-free, plus benches at the back of the church. In some places, box pews have signs indicating which farms 'rented' them. A lot were taken out during the Victorian restorations.
These few, these precious few.................all probably forgotten and, sadly, seemingly forgotten by the C of E as it plans for the future. I feel very strongly that the C of E has a duty of care for its graveyards and this duty must be honoured. The people lying here placed their faith and trust in the church and they did this in perpetuity, not just until the balance sheet said 'no'.
Just across the fields from the church, is St Clether's Holy Well and its associated chapel. It was here in the 5th century that Clederus or St Clether founded his chapel and this remained the parish church until the 'new' one was built in the 12th century. It is one of the largest holy wells in Cornwall and the chapel was extensively restored by the Victorians. It has been, and still is, a pilgrimage site. And when you sit there, it is obvious why. Somewhere with a spirit of place. Perhaps this is what attracted Clederus in the first place as a secluded spot for his hermitage.
This is the actual holy well, tucked behind the chapel. Reputedly, it never runs dry and has healing powers. I did make a wish but the Tories are still in power.
This is a granite altar slab dating from the 5th Century - contemporary with the founding of the Holy Well by Clederus? What is truly unique is that the water from the well flows through the chapel, under the altar and out the other side. In this way, the emergent water can be said to be blessed.
The water flows out the other side of the chapel and there is another well, more accessible that the source well and probably used more by pilgrims for their healing libation.
Looking vaguely north-wise with the multiple 'peaks' of Brown Willy about 10 miles away.
The lengthening shadows of late afternoon, overlooking Penbont Water, which later feeds into the Inny at Altarnun. A couple of miles down the lane and we were back at the starting point.

And we'll end with the sound of running water.



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