Musings from Higher Downgate and Elsewhere: Church Cove January 2024: Part 3

A relaxing walk - 3 churches, 1 holy well, 3 coves, 1 pub, 1 cafe, coastal footpath, mud and sun. Who could ask for more.

The route from Church Cove, took us inland to Grade and Cadgewith and then back along the coastal footpath. About 5.5 miles. Reasonably energetic , with the first half being made more 'interesting' because of the mud.

Just up the lane from Winch House is The Mariners. Built in the 17th Century, it was originally three cottages. In the early-mid 1800s the middle cottage obtained a license to become a public house and was known as a ‘kiddlewink’, a nickname that came from the fact that the pub was only licensed to sell Ale and not spirits but smuggled spirits were kept in a jug or kettle on the bar and a customer would look at it and wink and say ‘a drop of your special’. Fact or fiction? Who cares. It's a great story.

Church #1: St Wynwallow. We skirted past this today and did not repeat our visit of yesterday.

Every now and again some gymnastics were called for to get over muddy patches. In other places, it was a case of wading through to the occasional comment of "couldn't you have chosen a route along lanes?".

Church #2: the Church of St Grada and the Holy Cross at Grade. Not quite the most southerly church in the UK but almost. Not only historic but also rather interesting, slightly mysterious and quite difficult to find. It is remote with no direct access. A rough lane takes you there and, for that reason, it is only open during Spring and Summer. Well, that and the fact that there is no electricity or heating so it's deemed too cold to hold services over that period, But it is open for visitors all the time.
Saint Grada (Grade, Grace) is another obscure but unique Cornish saint. She is accepted to be local, female and a maiden; that’s all we’ve got. The full dedication is to St Grada and the Holy Cross, and the original dedication was simply to the Holy Cross since an early parishioner brought back a piece of the “True Cross” from an early pilgrimage to Jerusalem (more on this next). When, and indeed why, the dedication changed to St Grada is not recorded but records suggest the early 13th Century, not long after its construction. The tower is 13th C and the body of the church was a century older but needed an extensive 19th Century rebuild.

Coming back to the 'holy cross' dedication. A sixteenth century version of a legend tells how Sir Roger Wallysborough of Cornwall made a pilgrimage to the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem where he stole a piece of the Holy Cross - apparently he hide it in his thigh!. On his return, his ship was wrecked off Cornwall and he was cast ashore. During his ordeal he vowed to give a piece of the relic to the church of the parish where he landed safely - guess where that was. Grade is the only church dedicated to the holy cross on the coast, and in 1553 mention is made of a silver box “of the Holy Cross” amongst the parish possessions. If it was ever there, it's been long stolen and/or lost. I should point out that there are other versions of this story that add in a few fantastical elements, such as doves acting as prescient messengers and Sir Roger dying in a nearby field.

Following my usual practice when I come across an interesting military grave, I tried to find what I could about J P Newman. It turns out that his name was Jack Paul but, for some reason, he served under the alias of 'Newman'. His next of kin was his father, H Paul, of Norwich. Jack's service record shows that he worked on airships and a little more research shows that there was an airship base, RNAS Mullion, not that far away at Cury. I didn't know that airships were used to track and attack German submarines in WW1. The base was dismantled in 1919 and very little of it remains now. I couldn't find out the cause of death for Jack Paul but I'm assuming that he died in an accident at the base.

A rather sad headstone: "In loving memory of SUSIE beloved child of N & E BOULDEN who died Oct. 15th 1896, aged 3 years". I can't find out anything else about her, except for the fact that the Boulden family have been present in the graveyard for generations. When I come across headstones like this, I often wonder who was the last person to think about them and remember them. At least, I've remembered Susie and given her some substance for a while. And you will as you read this.

A very pleasant church to visit and one with a very peaceful atmosphere. It is small but not the smallest we'll come across on the walk.

Some of the staned glass on the south wall.

The obligatory piece of serpentine, a rather fine pulpit.

Three ways of getting into the graveyard - a wooden stile, a steeped granite version (probably the original entry point) and a gate. Take your pick. We did and used the wooden stile.

A holy well - St Ruan’s Well - and water for baptisms at St Grada used to be fetched from this well. Think of the many people who, through the centuries, have come to pray here. And here's a little more of the fantastic: Oral tradition cites St Ruan as being a werewolf who was invulnerable to wolves and credits him with driving them from Cornwall.

Church #3. The smallest church we've come across: St Mary’s Church, Cadgwith. It is not very old and was originally built as Holy Cross Roman Catholic Church. It became St Mary’s in the Anglican diocese of Truro in 1926. It was originally constructed of wood before being clad in corrugated iron when bought by the Diocese of Truro; just when it turned a lovely shade of blue is not recorded.

It’s original construction was in 1895 when the fishermen of Cadgwith were having difficulty finding brides. A consignment of brides was procured in the Republic of Ireland but they were all Catholic and before they settled in Cadgwith the Methodist fishermen had to build their new wives a Catholic church. Within a generation the Catholic congregation had shrunk and in order to maintain the church the Diocese of Truro took it over. Rather unique, eh?

It is still well used with regular services. Small but perfectly formed!

I know you've been looking out for it and here's the serpentine feature.

A pleasant surprise. I thought it was a Stonechat or a Chaffinch but it turns out to be a Bullfinch. Something I have not seen for a long, long while.

Just a seed-head in monochrome. I like it.

Cove #1: Working fishing boats at Cadgwith Cove. Refreshments at the Cadgwith Inn - recommended.

THV (Trinity House Vessel) Galatea is a lighthouse tender operated by Trinity House, the body responsible for the operation of lighthouses and marine navigation aids around the coasts of England, Wales and the Channel Islands. Trinity House, itself, was founded in 1514, during the reign of Henry VIII.

What a shame! I missed this by a couple of weeks. If I had been here on Christmas Day, I might have been the first in the water. And pigs might fly.

Lobster pots at Cadgwith Cove.

The Devil’s Frying Pan on the way. This 200 feet deep hole was once a cave, the roof having collapsed leaving a bar of rock and an archway through which the waves pound.