January at Poldhu Cove: Part 5

A momentary "will we, won't we" start to the day but common-sense prevailed and we did spend another day walking the Coastal Footpath. And we were glad we did as it was an 8 mile cracker. We started at Marazion, opposite St Michael's Mount, took a bus to Praa (pronounced Pray) Sands and then walked back along the coast. We chose this direction as we'd be heading towards the Mount and would have it in our sights for a large part of the way. We passed by Prussia Cove, Bessy's Cove, Piskie's Cove, Perran Sands and Perranuthnoe, all of which were completely new to us and all of which showed us a hidden part of the Cornish coast. A delightful day out. And the weather? Sunny and dry all the way around.

A bacon bap, a cup of tea and a view. A great way to start the walk. Actually, we didn't start walking here as we had to catch a bus first.

A cheerful male robin singing his little heart out. We could just make out his song: "It's your lucky day, girls. Here I am. Come and take advantage of me. You know you want to". Or something like that. My IWC rather unkindly said "typical male".

Getting into our stride and looking back on the beach at  Praa Sands

Now looking forward to Prussia Cove. The complex of buildings in the distance nowadays comprise the Prussia Cove International Music Seminar. These started in the early 1970s and provide s learning retreat for accomplished musicians. It has an international reputation but is way, way, way out of my league. More in my league is the Judie Dench film, Ladies in Lavender, which was made here.
Prussia Cove actually describes an area of a number of coves (Kings, Bessy's, Piskie's) all of which have a  colourful past related to smuggling activities in the late 1700s/early 1800s.. In fact, the name 'Prussia Cove, derives from one particularly notorious smuggler, John Carter. He seemed to have had a long-standing fascination with the King of Prussia and this sobriquet got passed on to the area of his adventures.

Bessy's Cove (named after one of John Carter's associates who ran a nearby pub) is reputed to have been heavily involved in smuggling and the cart ruts cut into the rock are suggested to have resulted from loading contraband onto wagons for rapid dispersal. Nice idea but they are more likely to have come from the long-standing practice of gathering seaweed as fertiliser for nearby farms. 

 

Just past Bessy's Cove we came across this sturdy wooden pole with holes and a set of pretty hefty chains cemented into nearby rocks. Curiosity piqued, I rooted around for an explanation when we got back and here's what I came up with: 'it is one of the moorings for HMS Warspite, a Queen Elizabeth class destroyer constructed in Devonport docks in 1912. After many campaigns, including the Battle of Jutland and extensive service during the Second World War, she was finally sold for scrap in 1947. En route to the breakers she broke away from the tug and ran aground in Prussia Cove. When she was refloated she was towed into Mounts Bay to be broken up for scrap.'

At the crest of the hill at Cudden Point and St Michael's Mount first comes into view. It was with us for the rest of the walk.

St Piran and St Michael's Church at Perranuthnoe, on a hill overlooking the village and the sea. The first building was Saxon and the present one is mainly 13th century with a few Norman bits still remaining.



An interesting interior with a rood screen still in place. As for St Wynwallow's in Church Cove, there was a profusion of colourful kneelers on the pews. Upon close and considered inspection, the D Parsons Prize for Best Embroided Kneelers was awarded to St Wynwallow's - by a mile.



Perran Sands or Perranuthnoe Beach. Safe swimming and surfing, all within sandwich-throwing distance of an excellent beach-side café.

Strange Things found on a Walk Part 34: a blond wig hanging in a tree. Fascinating and we spent the rest of the walk looking for a bald headed person.

Walking back along the road into Marazion we noticed this unusual plaque high up on a building being used as a studio. It was obviously military in origin but what? Good old Google came up with the answer. It dates from the 1880s and was a drill hall originally used by No. 8 Company 1st Cornwall (Duke of Cornwall’s) Volunteer Artillery. Fascinating, eh? Or is it just me? 

And down on the shoreline at Marazion there were many dunlins and turnstones (with the red legs), picking over what the rising tide was bringing in.

And back at the place where we started for a drink to celebrate the end of a great walk. Try it - you'll enjoy it.

And on this day - 6th January - in 2010, I made my very first blog posting, just 10 miles from where I'm sitting now. Just thought I'd mention it.