Wednesday 7 January 2015

January at Poldhu Cove: Part 6

As per the forecast, the weather today was pretty awful so we pottered around the Lizard rather than risk being blown off a cliff. Teashop, church, pub, church and pub was the order of the day. Just a few photographs for the record.
Our first church to visit was St Breac's at Breage (pronounced 'breeg'). What is unusual about this largely 15th century building are the original wall paintings. These are the two largest: St Christopher to the left and the Christ of all Trades to the left.
There are three aisles in the church and a Victorian rood screen. It was a cold building and, in terms of kneelers, not as good as the two churches we've visited previously on this break.
During the Civil War, Charles I thanked his loyal subjects in Cornwall for their fidelity by sending a proclamation to each church in the county. Many of them are still on display, as this one is in St Breac's. Perhaps it was a case of too little, too late as he was defeated in 1645 and executed in 1649.
Shipwright's Arms at Helford Passage - an ideal spot for many things, including a drink and a bowl of smoked haddock chowder.
Our second church was St Anthony's in Meneage, on the Gillan Creek. Another largely 15th century structure, tucked away in a very attractive location close to the creek.
We were intrigued at the number of chandeliers in the church and then the penny dropped - no electric lights but lots and lots of candles. Overall a very compact and warm church, but no prizes for the kneelers.
But it did have the royal coat of arms that accompanied the proclamation mentioned previously at St Breac's. I wonder where we'd be today if royalty hadn't been reinstated?
A 'delicacy' down this part of Cornwall is Heavy Cake and, although it's not heart-friendly, it does go well with a cup of tea and a handful of Simvastatin. Here's how it is described in one guide:
Heavy cake or Hevva cake (Cornish: Hevva) is a cake made from flour, lard, butter, milk, sugar and raisins. Its name is derived from the Pilchard industry in Cornwall prior to the 20th century when a 'huer' (cliff top lookout) helped locate shoals of fish. The huer would shout 'Hevva!, Hevva!' to alert the boats to the location of the pilchard shoals. Cornish tradition states that Hevva cake was baked by the huers on their return to their homes, the cake being ready by the time the crews returned to land. It is made by crumbling all of the dry mixture together, then adding the raisins and mixing to a dough with milk. It is then rolled to a thickness of about 1/2", and a criss-cross pattern is scored across the top. This pattern represents the nets used by the fishermen.

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