Monday 8 January 2018

Blwyddyn Newydd yn Sir Benfro: Rhan olaf

Our last day of our present sojourn and, although the weather had improved, we decided we would spend it pottering about. And that's we did and enjoyed it very much. Here are a few photographs for the record.
A couple of people have asked us where we stay when we are in these parts. For the last 8 or 9 years, we've stayed in the extremely comfortable cottage called Glowty, owned by Jan and John Warren of
www.stdavidsholidaycottages.co.uk  The fact that we've revisited so many times should tell you that it suits us very well and, judging from the comments in the Visitor's Book, so does everyone else who stays. Glowty and its neighbour, Ty Draw, are at the end of a lane in the small hamlet of Treleddyd Fawr, which has just 12 houses. It's about 2 miles outside of St David's itself and is well placed for everything we want to do. And it's quiet! And it's next to a footpath. And it's not far from Whitesands and the Coastal Footpath.
Another shot of the cathedral showing that, yes, it doesn't always rain and blow in St David's.
A wide angled shot of the choir stalls. I've sung from them, generally in the back row on the left, many, many times. Sadly never to be repeated but enjoyable while it lasted. All good things come to an end and better to have sung than not to have sung at all
The figures 3 and 6 on the clock face are a permanent reminder of my times here with the East Wickham Singers. Collectively we sponsored their regilding a couple of years ago.
We decided to drive around and follow the Saints and Stones tour which takes in a number of the most notable churches in the area. Our first stop was St. Hywel's Church in the hamlet of Llanhowel. It, the church, is early mediaeval in origin with some later additions and alterations. For example, the bellcote is thought to be from the 13th or 14th century. St Hywel? He seems to have been a scion of a noble family from Brittany but not a lot is known about his 'saintly' deeds. There are some legends that connect him with King Arthur and the Round Table.
A very pleasant interior with a 14th century skew passage on the left which, at one time, would have functioned as a squint. A feature of many of these small rural churches is that they appear to be well cared for, probably by older members of local families. Jump forward 5, 10 or 15 years and will they be as well cared for?
My first Snowdrop of the year. Be still my galanthophilic heart.
Of the relatively few gravestones, this is the one I found most interesting. 'Bernard Green. Artist of Excellence'. An intriguing inscription and one that is a challenge to the curious.
And it doesn't take much rooting around to come up with the fact that Bernard Green was a talented artist who moved to the locality in the 1970s and took inspiration from the Pembrokeshire landscape. His speciality was the linocut and, in particular, the reductive linocut which, apparently, was favoured by Picasso. It's worth looking up the details of how this is done because it's a fascinating technique and not one for those without a steady hand and a keen eye. One of the features of this technique is that it leads to multi-coloured linocuts. Here's a copy of one he did entitled 'St. Hywel's Church Llanhowel'. I like the precision and clarity of his work and could be tempted to buy one if I came across it.
The next church, which was not on the Saints and Stones trail, was St Teilo's at Llandeloy. Unfortunately, we were to be disappointed at a number of levels. It was closed, with no indication of how to contact any keyholder  and with a graveyard that had few, and no recent, burials. The church dates from the 12th century and by the 1820s was in ruins. It was rebuilt in the 1920s following Arts and Crafts principles, using the simplest available local materials and not copying the style of any particular period. It was finally closed in 2002 and then taken into the care of the rather poignantly named Friends of Friendless Churches. I've heard of the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings and the Churches Conservation Trust but not the FFC. Apparently they take on the care of churches that no-one else wants. How sad it must be to be a Friendless Church. I'm not sure what it says about the surrounding community.
 
I've taken this image of the inside of St Teilo's from the internet and it looks fascinating. Full of interesting artifacts and stunning craftsmanship. We'll have to return to this when we are next in the area.
Our penultimate church visit was to St Nicholas's in St Nicholas. It is thought that there has been a church of some sort on or about this site since the end of Roman times, although the present structure was 'restored' by the Victorians. It is in the centre of the village and, according to their parish magazine, there is a plan to upgrade the interior so that it can be more easily used by the wider community.
A very pleasant interior with a squint (on the right) and a Norman font. It felt well cared for. There is a vacancy for the position of vicar. Any takers?
Our final church was St Catherine's at Granston, which was closed. Although there has been a church on the site since 'ancient times', the present building dates from the mid-1800s. It was a complete rebuilt and, apart from the foundations, nothing remains of any earlier structure. From the emerging growth, I would imagine the graveyard would look amazing when the snowdrops and daffodils are out.
The sun setting over Whitesands Bay. Quite different to when the hordes were there for the New Year's Day Swim. I know which ambience I prefer.
To end the day we dined at The Shed in Porthgain. Fish and chips voted 'best ever' by Mrs P and a truly excellent monkfish and king prawn curry for me. Yum! Oops, how could I forget our starters? Goat's cheese and beetroot salad for the lady and smoked haddock fishcakes for me. Double yum.
The tide was arriving as we were leaving.
Footnote or should it be wingnote? On the way back we stopped at Lawrenny Quay, near Mrs P's roots, for a short while. It's a tranquil spot on an estuary and, as it turned out, a good place for bird spotting. Here's a composite (from the top left) of curlew (with what looks like an injured wing), redshank, shelduck and little egret.

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