Hurtigruten norsk tur: Del ti

A day, our last full day of cruising, completely confined to the boat as we continued southwards, with calls at Trondheim, Kristiansund and Molde. Sunset is noticeably later than it was up north but it's still pretty nippy outside at 5pm(currently -5C). Another day of blue skies and calm seas. Boy, have we been lucky with the weather. In fact, we've been lucky with just about everything connected with this sojourn. Here are a few photographs from the deck as we sailed along

Low lying clouds obscuring the view.

Yet another boat against a mountainous background. On this part of the journey, the mountains were with us most of the time, with gradually decreasing amounts of snow cover as we move further south.

The design of these lighthouses is totally different to the 'sticks of rock' we see so often in the UK. I suppose that's not surprising as their functions are different. In Norway they are navigation markers along reasonably sheltered channels: in the UK they can be warnings of hazardous rocks as well as beacons for navigation in stormy seas.

Every now and again, but not that often, we come across a church in the distance.

A demonstration of fish filleting given by one of the ship's chefs. He makes it look so easily - and he has all of his own fingers. The salmon had been out of the sea for less than 24 hours and, dipped in a citrusy marinade, was delicious.

Kristiansund basking in the evening sunshine. A very attractive looking town. It was a pity that we didn't have enough time to wander around it.

Oil rig? Gas rig? I couldn't make out what it was. The photograph doesn't do justice to its fairy lights.

As the sun sets, there are some really attractive pastel skies. Blink and the tones change. Blink again and there's something different again.

And this is last sunset I'll take from the foredeck of the MV Finnmarken. Boo hoo. 

Hurtigruten norsk tur: Del ni

A day of almost continual cruising, with short stops at Bodo, Ornes, Nesna, Sandnessjoen, Bronnoysund and Rorvik, passing back out of the Arctic Circle just south of Ornes. A very relaxing day but there is a definite feeling that the holiday is coming to an end. Also we are noticing that the number of coughing passengers is increasing, the consequence of too many people in close proximity for a lengthy period.  At the end of the day we were treated to a 5-course anniversary dinner to celebrate the 125 year anniversary of the Hurtigruten. And very nice it was, too.

Situated on the Helgeland coastline between Sandnessjoen and Bronnoysund is the range of mountains known as the Seven Sisters. There are many legends relating to them but they all reduce to them being seven trolls who were turned to stone when they were exposed to the sun. Were they dancing at the time or running away from their tyrannical father? Take your pick.

Another interesting looking church that was closed when we visited. This is Bronnoy Kirke in Bronnoysund. There has been a church on this site since the 13th century and this present stone building was built in 1870. Fire had destroyed two earlier wooden building and that's why this one is built of stone.

The War Memorial in Bronnoysund naming those who died on WW2. Amongst these names are some who were executed by firing squad by the Germans and also Meyer Dvoretsky who died in Auschwitz in 1942/1943.

The Torghatten. The mountain with a hole, or natural tunnel, through it. According to legend, the hole was made by the arrow of a troll who was thwarted doing naughty things to the beautiful maiden, Lekamoya.

The Finnmarken basking in the evening sun at the quay in Bronnoysund.

The moon at sunset over a fjord.

Hurtigruten norsk tur: Del otte

Today the itinerary was Tromso, Finnsnes, Harstad, Risoyhamn, Sortland, Stokmarknes, Svolvaer and Stamsund (at 10 pm). We had opted to take the Vesteralen Panorama Bus tour which saw us disembarking at Harstad at 8 am (gulp) and rejoining the ship at Stokmarknes at 2.15 pm. In between these times, we had a tour of a few sites of interest, drove up and down a few fjords, took a ferry across Guillfjord and thence to Stokmarknes. In the evening there was a reasonably long stop at Svolvaer and we took advantage of this to walk around to get a feel for a Norwegian town on a Saturday night. A bit like Callington on a Saturday night - dead! But dead with snow, which makes all the difference.

Trondenes church, just outside of Harstad, is the northernmost mediaeval stone church in Norway and the world's most northern surviving mediaeval building. It was built around 1400. The present building is thought to be the third on the same site, the first one was wooden and the second partly built of stone. Some of the walls of this one were incorporated in the one we see today. It's in a spectacular position overlooking the fjord.

The church is well known for its rich decorations, the most impressive of which are these three gothic diptychs. There are remnants of some mediaeval frescoes to be seen as well and the pulpit is equipped with an hour glass to allow the minister to time his sermons. Trondenes holds both catholic and protestant services.

And in the church door (the original?) was this massive key (the original?). Just think of how many people have handled this over the centuries.

Next door to the church at Trondenes was the Trondenes Historical Centre, which gives insights into the region's history from the Stone Ages to today, with an emphasis on the Vikings and the Middle Ages. It was very well laid out and had a lot interesting artefacts on display, including these Viking weaving implements. Collectively the exhibits show how difficult it was to survive in such a harsh climate.

What, what? You mean you don't like my pickled herring and dried cod? Heresy. These are what drove the Viking invasion of Britain.

An authentic cod drying rack with some authentic dried cod, or stockfish as there are properly known. They are rock-hard and need a lot, and I mean a lot, of pre-preparation before they are become vaguely palatable. I'm not sure how the Vikings managed to do this whilst they were raping and pillaging.

The more recent history of Harstad/Trondenes is tragic. During WW2, there was a lot of German activity in the area, with many gun emplacements built along the coast. This was done by the slave labour of POWs, many of whom died under the brutal conditions. The Germans. meticulous as ever, logged every detail on the prisoners' record cards, including how they died. This wall in the museum shows many of the cards of the 1200 or so who died hereabouts.
Although I would have liked to, we didn't visit the cemetery in Harstad where there are 33 Commonwealth burials from WW2. But here's some information from the CWGC website about the graves. "During the Second World War, Norway was of strategic importance to the Germans. Their invasion on 9 April 1940 was sudden and widespread and despite Allied intervention, the entire country was under German occupation by early June. Thereafter, Allied activity in Norway was confined to raids and special operations, with the Commonwealth air forces providing support to Norwegian resistance groups until the German capitulation in May 1945. There are no Commonwealth war cemeteries in Norway, those who died there being buried in civil cemeteries and churchyards. Harstad was used as the military headquarters and main port of disembarkation for the expeditionary force sent to northern Norway in April 1940 and was repeatedly attacked by German aircraft throughout the entire operation. 701 Walrus Squadron of the Fleet Air Arm and 263 Gladiator (Fighter) Squadron operated from Harstad, the latter moving to Bardufoss Aerodrome in May. The graves of those who died in Bardufoss were later transferred to the Commonwealth plot at Harstad. Harstad Cemetery contains 33 Commonwealth burials, one of them unidentified. The cemetery also contains plots of other Allied war graves".

We drove through some really beautiful scenery - all that you could expect of a Norwegian fjordscape.

Ditto.

The original Finnmarken, with a capacity for a mere 44 persons. Hardly what I'd call a vessel for a luxury cruise. I guess our expectations were lower in those days.

Jump forward 50 years and this is the Finnmarken we were sailing on. Far more comfortable.

A little theatrical, perhaps, but our tour bus managed to be in the middle of a bridge as the Finnmarken passed below. Note the passengers waving on the bow. I bet they were all British as we like to wave at things simply because they are mving and we are not. This 'coincidence' took a lot of coordination between bus driver and ship via mobile phone and a couple of 'spontaneous' photo stops. But it give a great view of the boat - and nutters waving.

Gosh, that boat must have been travelling at a fair old lick when it hit this house. I wonder if the captain was made to walk the plank?

Another troll house. This one was actually under a bridge, conveniently situated to ambush passing sailors. I'm not sure he would have had much luck in stopping the Finnmarken in its tracks. Maybe he did try and we ran over him?

A Black Guillemot. The last time I saw one of these was on Mull last year but not quite so close up.

A Shag in flight. I like the aerodynamics of its flight: head and neck extended and the legs tucked up under the rear tail feathers.

Slowly going down the narrow Trollfjord gave spectacular scenery and an opportunity for many seascapes, of which these are just a few. I've got loads of them. If you want more, just let me know.

Whilst in Svolvaer we happened upon the Lofoten Krigsminnenmuseum, a charmingly jumbled collection of WW2 artefacts and memorabilia, mostly of the German occupation. Lots of information to absorb, particularly about the role the Norwegian navy played in the allied activities in the North Sea and beyond. I didn't realise that over 300 Norwegian vessels were involved at Dunkirk or the number taking part in guarding the North Atlantic convoys. An unsung contribution to the war effort.

A projection onto the walls of a hotel in Svolvaer. Quite striking in the snow.

 

Svolvaer Kirk - closed.

Svolvaer on a Saturday night. I did it a disservice by comparing it with Callington. It actually looked a very pleasant place, especially in the snow.

 

Hurtigruten norsk tur: Del syv

A fair bit of sailing today with scheduled stops in Mehamm, Kjollerfjord, Honningsvag (where we'd stopped on the way up to visit North Cape), Havoysund, Hammerfest, Oksfjord, Skjervoy and Tromso (at midnight). Another very enjoyable and relaxing day: a walk around Hammerfest,  seascapes all day, a white tailed sea eagle, a cookery lesson and a spectacular sunset. Sounds quite exhausting.

We'll start off with a couple of shots of the Northern Lights from last night's show.

The colours were more visible to the eye than before and lasted quite a while before fading away. Apparently if we had stayed up until midnight, we would have had an even better show. But we didn't.

The church in Hammerfest. It had to be rebuilt after WW2 due to the occupying German's radical approach to town planning - scorched earth and raze everything to the ground. The church was rebuilt in 1961 and takes its shape from traditional fish drying racks.

The magnificent church organ.

The interior of the church was light, bright and uncluttered - apart from the tourists. The walls were punctuated with small stained glass windows, echoing the main piece of glasswork behind the altar. Totally different to the churches we normally visit but no less interesting for that.

Wherever you are in Hammerfest, there's a view of the fjord. Seascapes, I do love seascapes.

There is a shortage of cultivable land in many coastal parts of Norway and the good old British vegetable garden is just not possible for the locals. But, that's not something they worry about as they are more fond of fish than vegetables. In fact, I'd go as far as to say that to them the cod is equivalent to our potato. They all fish but the shortage of land means that they have few place to dry them. Hence these communal fish drying racks, placed strategically close to their homes. They are called allotmokoken and are available to all who need them at a nominal rent. Of course, a head for heights is needed to get to the highest one and, for these, the rent is lower. Isn't it amazing what people will do for a bit of dry fish?

Heading out of Hammerfest towards Oksfjord for a scheduled 5 minute stop to pick up some fish.

The diminutive dwelling of another coastal troll. This one doubles up as a lighthouse and brings in a few extra kroner for the 'illumintroll' who lives here.

The setting sun picks out patches of light on these mountains across the fjord.

What setting sun, you ask? This setting sun, that's what.

Can you see too many setting suns like this? Of course not and we spent ages outside in the bow taking it all in. Ever changing in its colour and luminosity.

Here's a bonus that happened in a few seconds. A white tailed sea eagle caught against an island cliff. It has unsuccessfully tried to pick off a much smaller bird, failed and then soared around for a while before flying out of range.

A group of Common Eider ducks - huddled so closely together for warmth? It was cold out there today. Good thing they've got plenty of down to keep them insulated.

 

Another holiday highlight: attending a 'how to marinade salmon' workshop give to a select few by the boat's deputy head chef. This is my first attempt at making gravid laks. It will be kept in a fridge in the kitchen, turned regularly by the chefs and available for me to pick up when we depart the boat in Bergen in a few days. Who wants to come around and sample it? And maybe some pickled salmon?

 



One last sunset, this one - the best of the lot - taken by Mrs P. Another talent to add to her ever-increasing list.