Hurtigruten norsk tur: Del syv

A fair bit of sailing today with scheduled stops in Mehamm, Kjollerfjord, Honningsvag (where we'd stopped on the way up to visit North Cape), Havoysund, Hammerfest, Oksfjord, Skjervoy and Tromso (at midnight). Another very enjoyable and relaxing day: a walk around Hammerfest,  seascapes all day, a white tailed sea eagle, a cookery lesson and a spectacular sunset. Sounds quite exhausting.

We'll start off with a couple of shots of the Northern Lights from last night's show.

The colours were more visible to the eye than before and lasted quite a while before fading away. Apparently if we had stayed up until midnight, we would have had an even better show. But we didn't.

The church in Hammerfest. It had to be rebuilt after WW2 due to the occupying German's radical approach to town planning - scorched earth and raze everything to the ground. The church was rebuilt in 1961 and takes its shape from traditional fish drying racks.

The magnificent church organ.

The interior of the church was light, bright and uncluttered - apart from the tourists. The walls were punctuated with small stained glass windows, echoing the main piece of glasswork behind the altar. Totally different to the churches we normally visit but no less interesting for that.

Wherever you are in Hammerfest, there's a view of the fjord. Seascapes, I do love seascapes.

There is a shortage of cultivable land in many coastal parts of Norway and the good old British vegetable garden is just not possible for the locals. But, that's not something they worry about as they are more fond of fish than vegetables. In fact, I'd go as far as to say that to them the cod is equivalent to our potato. They all fish but the shortage of land means that they have few place to dry them. Hence these communal fish drying racks, placed strategically close to their homes. They are called allotmokoken and are available to all who need them at a nominal rent. Of course, a head for heights is needed to get to the highest one and, for these, the rent is lower. Isn't it amazing what people will do for a bit of dry fish?

Heading out of Hammerfest towards Oksfjord for a scheduled 5 minute stop to pick up some fish.

The diminutive dwelling of another coastal troll. This one doubles up as a lighthouse and brings in a few extra kroner for the 'illumintroll' who lives here.

The setting sun picks out patches of light on these mountains across the fjord.

What setting sun, you ask? This setting sun, that's what.

Can you see too many setting suns like this? Of course not and we spent ages outside in the bow taking it all in. Ever changing in its colour and luminosity.

Here's a bonus that happened in a few seconds. A white tailed sea eagle caught against an island cliff. It has unsuccessfully tried to pick off a much smaller bird, failed and then soared around for a while before flying out of range.

A group of Common Eider ducks - huddled so closely together for warmth? It was cold out there today. Good thing they've got plenty of down to keep them insulated.

 

Another holiday highlight: attending a 'how to marinade salmon' workshop give to a select few by the boat's deputy head chef. This is my first attempt at making gravid laks. It will be kept in a fridge in the kitchen, turned regularly by the chefs and available for me to pick up when we depart the boat in Bergen in a few days. Who wants to come around and sample it? And maybe some pickled salmon?

 



One last sunset, this one - the best of the lot - taken by Mrs P. Another talent to add to her ever-increasing list.