Monday 12 February 2018

Hurtigruten norsk tur: Del tre

Another clear day with blue skies and our first day above the Arctic Circle. Perfect weather for cruising. It was noticeably cooler on deck, with the temperature hovering around -5C. Hooray for thermals. Not sexy but they do the job.  We continued to weave between islands all day and stopped at Ornes, Bodo, Stamsund and Svolvaer, but only disembarking for a while at Bodo.
The scenery around the fjord in which Ornes was located. This was probably everyone's idea of what a port in a fjord looked like. The main industry here? Fish, fish and more fish. Apparently, Ornes has a fine beach that attracts tourists. Surely not to swim? Nobody can be that hardy - or daft.

Ornes harbour. There were lots of Grey Herons around here. I counted six and I was surprised to see them so far north.

Off to get the catch of the day. This is probably going for King Crab which, if you take out a small mortgage, you can eat on board at a special tasting event.
Just a nice scene, of which there were many today. In fact, I've just passed the 500 mark on the photographs I've taken so far. Hooray for cheap and easy digital storage.
Gulls standing on the frozen sea, well out from the shore. It was a mere skin on the surface but thick enough to bear their weight.
Our first stop of the day was at Bodo and we had about 2 1/2 hours to see the sights. In the event, that was about an hour too long. The sole highlight of our sojourn was Bodo Cathedral. Beside the ornate bell tower, the cathedral looks a pretty dour concrete block.
But go inside and it's light, roomy, functional and very pleasant to walk around - no rules to break this time. The previous building had been destroyed by the Germans in 1940 and the rebuilding was completed in 1956. It's a complete contrast to the mediaeval cathedrals we usually visit and it reminded me of the one in Reykjavik.
The main stained glass window behind the altar. It must be quite a sight when the sun is streaming through, but not today.
A much smaller piece of stained glass in an intimate side chapel.
The design of the main altar traps the sun in the waves and produces a ripple effect. Not a sunny day but enough came through to give an idea of what could be seen.
This statue is not of Christ but of Petter Dass (1647-1707), a Lutheran priest and the foremost Norwegian poet of his generation. He also wrote Baroque hymns.
Every day is Xmas Day in downtown Bodo but that still doesn't attract the people. Where were they? It was practically deserted with only bemused tourists wandering the streets. If tumbleweed could have blown down the streets, it would have. As exciting as Callington on a wet weekend.
The Skarholmen lighthouse, marking the sound between the mainland and the Lofoten Islands. It's red with a single white band.
In the distance are the mountains of the Lofoten Islands, often described as a 'wall' off the Norwegian coast. Reknowned for their fishing and isolation.
Lots of small fishing boats out and, hopefully, this one was heading back to port with a good catch on board. "Pity the poor sailors on a night like this" was one of Nan Bowyer's stock phrases. I still think of her every time I see a lone boat at sea. It's a hell of a way to make a living. I'll raise a glass (of water) tonight when I tuck into my salmon and tomorrow morning when I have pickled herring (10 varieties are available every day) for breakfast.

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