Hebridean Journal April 2014: Part 2 - Island Hopping

This post should have been Part 3 of our Hebridean Odyssey but a press of the wrong computer key completely erased the planned Part 2 just as I was about to publish it. A great shame as it described our first full day in which we had a 6 mile walk up and around the Udal Peninsular in North Uist. I haven't the energy to rewrite it but believe me it was a good place to be. To continue......

Yesterday we headed north so today we headed south, with our route encompassing the following islands: Benbecular to South Uist (causeway), South Uist to Eriskay (causeway), Eriskay to Barra (ferry) and Barra to Vattersay (causeway).

Our walk for the day took us to the west side of Barra and into the hills at Allathasdal. A six miler which was not quite as described in our route guide with more ups and bogs than expected. Notwithstanding these minor inconveniences, it was yet another good day for getting out and about. And I'm uploading this right now, before I press yet another wrong key.

There were two things that intrigued me about this sign in the Barra ferry waiting room. Firstly: the strange positioning of the apostrophe in the header. I can't make any sense of the logic behind this one. Secondly: I like the vagueness of the closing time and presume that the regular customers know what 8-ish means.

I like the matter-of-factness of the intra-island ferries. An extremely efficient operation whenever we've used them and what better way to get from one island to another? In fact, in most cases, they are the only way.

This huge tidal cockle beach on Barra doubles up as the airport landing strip. In the true sense of the word, this is unique.

Watching the planes land and take-off is an unusual spectacle, particularly as the plane ploughs through some pools of sea water raising loads of spray from the wheels.

An interesting old graveyard at Cille Barra. In one corner, in a protective building, were four Norse graves with some interesting carved stone covers. Visiting this graveyard introduced us to the fact that Barra was very much a Catholic island, as was South Uist but not Benbecula or North Uist.

At several places on our walk we came across the ruins of houses deserted during the clearances of the mid-19th century. Given their number, it was clear that this area sustained quite a large population at one time.

A view of the surrounding countryside with the ever-present sea in the background.

Two old ruins - the most notable being the remains of the Neolithic chambered cairn.

 A sheep carcass stripped clean, most probably, by some raptors. Eagles , both Golden and White-tailed, are quite common around here, as are hen harriers, merlins, peregrines, short-eared owls and buzzards. Take your pick - as they did.

Kisimul Castle in the bay just off Castlebay. It's been the stronghold of the McNeil clan since the 11th century. Currently it has been leased by the clan chief to Historic Scotland for a 1000 years at a peppercorn rent. It is open for visitors but we were just too late.

I wonder what way they'll be voting in the Independence Referendum come September? The needs of Barra seem a very long way from Westminster and the prospect of more local control over their affairs has got to be very appealing. Although we did not get into any detailed political debates with anyone, I sensed that the mood was more towards "yes" than "no".

And with the sun setting in the west, we finish an excellent day with an equally excellent meal at the Polochar Inn on South Uist.